In this show, Victor Dzenk wanted to show a facet rarely seen on the runways of Fashion Rio – where usually parade – and the São Paulo Fashion Week, which is temporary participation this winter. Known for his party fashion line, mining stylist chose to give more visibility to your casual wear. That of simplesinha does not have much, and that is popular with locals celebrities like Claudia Raia (the look that the actress uses the premiere of the new novel seven in the Rede Globo, on Monday, by the way, is it) and 150 points of sale he has at Brazil.
That said, points to the pleated leather skirts and ponchos with silk fringe, sewn manually one by one and with a nice swing on the catwalk. The series B, the end of the show, is the most beautiful, and brings this opposition between larger pieces with the waist as setpoint. (Carolina Vasone)
Highlights: Transportation Isabelli Fontana for the Game of Thrones series – and then forget that part rustling of the castle, the deal here is war, are the long black coats and the heroic bravery of John Snow – add maxipaetês, geometry in all finishes (necklines in the back, finishing skirts) a neat dose of fetish and, voila, are born warriors Tufi Duek.
Inspiration comes from the Viking culture (another television reference that comes to mind is the Irlando-Canadian series Vikings), but the sense of feminine power of almost barbarian warrior women could well fit the plot of Game of Thrones, which also goes on Middle Ages, shortly after the time of the Vikings. For the contemporary version of these warriors, long knee-high boots, with lashings evoking corset to lashings of jackets worn underneath the armor, accompanied by rubberized leggings, are the basis of looks worked with eyelets and metal applications that evoke exactly the armor, which are beyond the sequin times the metal mesh. In modeling, the dresses are dry, short and structured, the evasês skirts and also durinhas. In tailoring, dresses and skirts win long tails with rectangular cutouts. Especially the long-jumpsuit dress with metallic applications in front, and the beautiful combination of blue tone with brown and gold with brown or black.
Patricia Bonaldi was pure excitement backstage. With his second line PatBo, the designer makes his “debut” at Fashion Week, an expression she used to translate the climate around its debut at the event, even having already presented their collections in individual shows. “There is pressure time to speak directly to an expert audience, but it has been a constructive process for me.” Although anxious, she was also satisfied with his own work and safe that had managed to do “something special to show.”
By special means a collection that mixes extreme femininity of his work, with many ornaments, embroidery and richness in the materials, with a younger attitude and even male or bold, as she likes to talk. The tailoring is well built, there is a good job with the tweed, nothing face a palette of vibrant colors, unique prints and a job with hooded sweatshirts, sometimes cropped, which brings playfulness to the collection mixed with the heavier fabrics. It is a rich and vibrant collection for his young and vain clientele, which colored the front row. Two moments are in the mind: the input Thairine Garcia, unforgettably beautiful, and the last look in Waleska feel, in white and gold tones.
Highlights: It was once a streetwear brand that used a nothing literally – as references should be applied, so that does not result in clichés – a children and very dark tale (in the original, at least) of the Brothers Grimm to create the collection for next winter 2015 Brazilian. The end of this story is happy, with a mix of wool coming from textures with the loom, in long coats and worn on male and female line, in chess used in detail or in patchworks where you can see, there in the middle, almost hidden, in an embroidered gingerbread format with shape of doll: a classic among the goodies in the Northern Hemisphere and the house made of candy by the witch of the plot.
The John – represented by Bruno Gagliasso, special guest of the show – and the Maria da Cavalera form a couple in style tune. Both use bib blue jeans, she merges with brown accessories, he stained chess on the collar of the shirt. For girls, the forest prints, dark, almost frightening, earn air flirtatious side with frilled skirts or the collars of blouses and transparent dresses of silk muslin. The application of chess with mixture of dirty tones such as green, purple, brown and gray is used to them and for them, simulating collars and decorating details of the parts. Especially curated fabrics made by Alberto Hiar, with selection of materials brought from 15 different countries, such as Turkey, India, Italy, Spain, Pakistan and Japan. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: “I thought a lot about my mother when I created this collection,” said Pedro Lourenço backstage, soon after his show. Minutes before, Gloria Coelho had passed and congratulated him on a cheer that sounded almost as respectful as an exchange of greetings between professional colleagues who wonder too. The Givenchy muse of Peter for this winter, however, was more a mix of cool stylist with the ideal of beauty that we sees the mother, the most beautiful woman and we observed more in the world when you’re a kid. In the case of Peter, childhood takes a bit of the 80s and it was in this decade that he froze Gloria image to create a supercontemporânea version of the time, adding new elements to its streamlined fashion that every season, earns more decorative stitches.
If there is one key piece is the tulip skirt. Decked transparent sequins or hybrids animal prints – resemble zebras, leopards and even cows but in fact the result of a hybrid, a mixture of references to animal prints – she walks through accompanied collection of cut tops and moorings that now come the diagonal ending in waists, sometimes making zigzag in the side slit skirt or ankle, to finish off the shoe. “It is a collection that refers to very separates, the idea of women build your own look. It’s a proposal for styling and lifestyle than modeling, “says Peter. This too, he points out, is a collection of accessories, especially the jewels signed by Jack Vartanian. Also watch the high waist pants, very, very 80’s!
Highlights: For your fashion trilogy inspired in large cities (Winter 2013 was devoted to Paris, and this summer, London), Reinaldo Lourenço traveled to Florence last July, and was admitted in the famous Uffizi museum, where you got references to the collection next winter 2015. The great motto researched is the Renaissance period, specifically in art and architecture. “I think of the Renaissance period also as a symbol of restart and bring this atmosphere to the collection. I’m always searching, searching for the new. I think we have to change forever, “said Reinaldo, moments before the parade, traditionally held at FAAP.
Besides Giottos and Botticellis, Reinaldo brought Florence a very specific reference, transformed into three digital prints from the collection: drawings of Italian marble in which was enchanted. In modeling, the parts are close to the body, with straight short dresses and sequinhos, sets of fitting pants, spaced fringes, high waists and mainly focus on long sleeves marked by eyelets of details that seem coupling them to the rest of the outfit . (CAROLINA VASONE)
PAT PAT’S: Highlights: younger Manufacturer Patricia Viera, Pat Pat’s retains two special talents of the mother brand. One of them is to give the appearance that you want to leather, with an impressive technique. Thus, points to the gardener, and in particular to the light blue set of pants and blazer, all with jeans effect … but out of leather. The other is the expertise to appropriate references in totally distant thesis of his raw material, in this case supercolorido streetwear 90s and stamp it in a leather which, again, wins face and brightness sweatpants, nylon, this joke illusionism fashion. On the soundtrack, Fiuk packed the looks to young consumers of the brand, who also played with himself in a pattern which referred to graffiti. (CAROLINA VASONE)
In the dressing room corner, an arrangement of flowers rested on the floor. Who you got ?, I asked. “Actually I did bought to give to my mother,” says Lolita. In seven year mark, Lolita has built its DNA with a lot of focus, but we can say that his biggest inspiration is his mother, Rosana Zurita, an expert in knitting and with whom the young designer of 26 years learned much of his work. Dona Rosana had a clothing and knitting provided for brands such as Daslu.
Because the plot is at the heart of the brand and this is where Lolita focuses his maturation as a stylist. This parade, inspired by an exhibition that saw over Egypt at the Metropolitan in New York, is proof that evolution. The knitting gain different sizes and shapes and new wefts, some very sophisticated, such as knit tape, lined on the inside middle silk and cotton by endcapped outside.
Egypt is clear, especially in the first looks, with detailed geometry of Ancient Egypt emblazoned on justíssimos midi dresses, even for a few, but beautiful to see. The application of piercings on clothing refers to ancient Egyptian jewelry and is successful in the way of creating a new ornamentation. It’s a visually powerful collection and a good control in the color palette and mix of materials. Certainly owner Rosana has many reasons to be proud of today. (CAMILA Yahn)
Night, voyeur, sensuality are some of the words that Giuliana used to interpret your collection when we met backstage before the show. The mystery, with a scent even voyeur, permeates the collection, starting with felt hats that hide the face of models.
The designer continues on its way and shows evolution and expansion of their DNA. There are indentations that are dear to their aesthetic, silhouettes now reveal, or hidden and the noir sensuality.
There necklines and cuts punctuated by a working geometric hollow that was very well explored and yielded good times as well as the extreme simplicity of the white chemise appears as a counterpoint, calling for another kind of sensuality.
As she said, “everything is cut,” even in the beautiful boots. “Almost left the man crazy factory. Please, I need just one more cut … “she says, with a laugh. The effort paid off: the pieces are already among the coolest accessories of the season. (CAMILA Yahn)
Highlights: To celebrate a decade of parades, John Pepper chose the phoenix as a symbol of his collection, played with classic patterns of male and female fashion, using them together like a beautiful overcoat merging chevron, pied-de-poule, scratched of chalk-and chess, or separated, and cited the female shape of almost hinted way near the collections that really would put the male bustle outside. The result are pieces with a lot of soul and personality, the kind one of a kind. Perfect for the designer, who two years ago closed his shop and only caters custom orders.
Besides the phoenix bird, seen in both the industrial jacquard, silkado or embroidery by Marcelo Andreotti, the “bordadeiro” and plastic artist his team, another very present drawing is the dry tree, also representing the renovation. With many boyfriends as customers, customs with different patterns and color combinations like brown and shiny black, or even the overall tailoring used with blazer are options for stylish men and no faces. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: Sales success with 1500 multi-brand and over 100 franchise stores in the country, not counting the 1650 International sale, Colcci once again brings Gisele Bündchen to represent his wife and bet on a fully connected with international streetwear of large jeanswear capital of world fashion. On the catwalk, prevail the broad and short pants (at the edge to turn long shorts) with high waist worn with cropped top, jeans worn accompanied by more structured pieces like the dress, the cover and the skirt in great tresse made of jeans, the jackets and coats with short conjuntinhos hard evasês skirts.
The mix of textures and patterns, when done right, always enriches the look and Colcci well apply this feature in several pieces, giving a super multicultural ethnic air in vogue. For men, the shorts matching the jacket is hit, as well as the 7/8 coat more Durinho, chic, with leather detail to be worn casually with jeans. (CAROLINA VASONE)
“You will find me if you want me in the garden, unless is pouring down with rain”.
Highlights: It makes you want to be young, to attend the center of São Paulo, use lime green sock and dance Beat It by Michael Jackson (music that ended the presentation). Makes you want to remember that the success of fashion, applied to real life, has 90% to do with attitude. And attitude Ellus really understand.
In the parade that celebrated 42 years of the brand, held at the Arts Square, a beautiful building in the heart São Paulo, Ellus again raised his rocker spirit, was inspired by street gangs, added lightness with colorful neon 80s – then come the boots pink and green delicious lemon – and incorporated the graffiti culture to prints leading brand name and had reference to the work of designer Stephen Sprouse and American artist, the same collaboration with Louis Vuitton in 2001 and famous for mixing luxury clothing street of popular culture elements.
The clothes, some gems as the series of skin patchwork snake and the many skirts with ruffles at the bar. The highlight however is the good and well-known jeans, sometimes textured, sometimes enhanced with applications, together with prints such as currents, graphite and always smart accessories designer. Highlighting the great overalls, both male and female. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: You know that filthy chic expression? Think of it and you will have a good definition of Lilly Sarti collection for next winter. On the catwalk, the scene of mouth forged an ambient mirrors that caused a kaleidoscope-like effect, but would to have all collection for the film A Single Man by Tom Ford. Set in the very beginning of the 60s, would suffice a little creativity to imagine the character Aline Weber and Juliane Moore using the sets of trousers and jacket with double abotoamente, accompanied by Felt chapelões, already 70, one of the inspiring decades of station. Already 60 (the other decade is designer winter reference), with its optical prints, their dresses in the short ones or their conjuntinhos skirt and miniskirt emplacariam to perfection the costumes of the film.
Featured absolute collection, the number of coats is born winter hit forming thick stripes of colored hair as green Astrakhan, caramel and brown and black leather overcoat that opens the show, with thin stripes in light blue hair. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: The jacket type robe of blue and black jacquard that opens the show, crowned with a glamorous black stole, used with sunglasses, says a lot about this new phase of Vitorino Campos. Luxury with irony and mood is much more enjoyable to see and to use. The designer, who just premiered ahead of Animale, shows that want to change in the very designer to enter for the first time, the jeans in your collection of traditionally more festive fashion.
New air deserve good additions as the winter sandals thick heel and rectangular pouches to be taken in hand. The metallic punctuates the collection, making this mix of luxury references as feathers, lace and bright jacquard with the sport in mesh screened in the early embroidered designer as the American teams. Highlights also include the straight and short pants, a classic Vitorino, worn under dresses or longer tops in front, and jackets with jeans type, made of various materials. Score positive for the designer! (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: Rio brand, Balcony premiered at Fashion Week with new creative direction. Priscilla Darolt, former Animale, brought to the style of the designer – who has flirted with fashionismo – the cutouts that are so characteristic of the designer’s work and the strength of a woman, even when using pastel colors and comfortable shapes, like enter the game to show power.
Inspired by the handloom and the graphics of the Inca ancient culture, the designer opted for a good mix of prints and drawings in knits, sometimes softer, with well clarinhos blue, now in stronger tones in maxicardigãs of tricô.Os highlights are on behalf of the meshes and beautiful series in pink and gray of the end of the parade. Especially the look that close the presentation with great proportion of large maxicardigãs with short dress, fairer wine, with clear cut, used by Aline Weber. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: Moments before the parade, the Triton of the room received an unusual visit. Representing the dark side, Darth Vader appeared, posed for photographers, exhibited its classic look of villainy but not risked sit in the front row for the final battle. On the catwalk, the Triton made the happiness of Star Wars fans and created an entire collection inspired by the trilogy, with more references spatial uniform in the female line and more Luke Skywalker footprint for the boys, at that stage of the desert planet Tatooine.
Thus, structured shapes, eyelet stitching pieces that resemble armor and set pieces build female heroines while men earn mysterious interpretations involving the tailoring, the desert, the sport, an accurate color chart and a combination of sharp proportions that few know how to do Igor de Barros. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: For the winter 2015, invests in Iódice double stamp tribal + crochet craft, the first coming from Africa, the second made by a social project with Professor penitentiary mining Ariovaldo Pires de Campos. In the collection, crochet mats saw coats and dresses in prints appear superfemininos brand, especially the model that can be considered the flagship collection, deep V-neck, belted and pleated skirt at the time of cinnamon. The jumpsuit silk V-neck and tribal prints with blue background also makes the list of the highest points of the tropical winter (with mild temperatures) the brand. (CAROLINA Vasone)
Highlights: Patricia Viera like is the tannery, which is orders of leather, raw material of 100% of the parts of their collections. “There turn a real chemistry,” said the designer, referring to the possibilities of dyeing and textures of the material in a conversation with the FFW after his show-presentation, in which she explained the whole process of collection and commented look to look next winter your brand.
The passion for the technical process, handling and cutting the leather dyeing possibilities, among other so much knowledge acquired over decades of experience and research with the material can be seen in the animation that describes the application process of the crystals that make a point cross design in dress is your darling of the collection. “The cross point is a technique that goes back to my childhood, reminds me of my grandmother,” recalls Patricia, who describes as full manual process, then made into series in the studio of 100 employees.
Impressive technical mastery alone does not suffice to create fashion desire. But Patricia Viera goes far beyond that. Their leather clothes are beautiful, soft to the touch, and this season to earn reference sophisticated simplicity of Scandinavian design and the American Frank Lloyd Wright architecture (Guggenheim museum creator of New York), explains Felipe Veloso, the stylist collection and Patricia’s business partner since 2009. “I thought that Nordic landscape, Stockholm, the field in that little house in the background, with this architecture that combines rational forms and organic environment.” and then he left the collection of Patricia Viera , soft, superfeminina, easy to use and made on the cooking process. (CAROLINA VASONE).
Highlights: A new framework for women’s clothing of the future. This is the proposal of Givenchy for women’s wardrobe from next winter 2015 and artifice that it intends to use in all their collections from now on. The idea is the following: a dress “fallen”, together with horizontal bases gently for points sewn by hand, adorned by Swarovski crystals. In the same piece, various materials, where the most beautiful example, the dress terminating the parade, a long white made up of 12 tracks that seem to almost float in the body of the model, representing the hypermodern bride in a patchwork leather, vinyl and crepe in shades white and off white. To complete the overall contemporary, the sleeves and the collar are removable, feature that is repeated in other looks from the collection.
Luxury patchwork, removable sleeves and suspended horizontal stitched bases form the Winter triumvirate of Gloria, applied in the evening dresses the end but also in more casual series of mesh skirts, tights high waist worn with short top, of stews short casaquetos and structured and looks that followed the proportion of volume on top and dry silhouette underneath. If this is really the future that awaits us, he promises. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: “The collection is a story that begins with a lost woman, represented by the gray series. She sets out to find new paths, so the seams are out, there is no finishing. Then there is a moment when the woman begins to tear the own clothes, get that old skin and comes a new skin underneath. It also appears when the frills [a test of the petals] to lead to the end of the flowers. “The summary of Fernanda Yamamoto, summarizes perfectly the spirit of its winter 2015: renewal, or self, as she set. Now for the “filling” of this idea.
In the first phase of the presentation, more melancholy, the looks in gray have straighter shape and layers of ruffles in compressed tracks. Then the clothes make more uncontrolled aspect, the ruffles open revealing a second skin and jacquards made from the design of Brazilian lace and embroidered sequins. In the end, the woman finally finds and “blooms” in the red series, with flowers and beautiful coats of handmade knitting. (CAROLINA VASONE)
GIG Couture was a sweet surprise in this year’s Fashion Week. The mining brand, specializing in knitting, has good reason to celebrate: the 10th anniversary of the brand and its debut at the event. In the dressing room, just before the show, the designer Gina War was calm countenance and met all interview requests with confidence. In fact, the butterflies in my stomach was when she accepted parade in Fashion Week. Today, with everything ready and a beautiful collection on the racks, there was no reason to worry. “Everything in GIG is well thought out and comes at the right time. Now we have the appropriate structure to take that step and serve the market. ”
For this collection, Gina went to Uzbekistan; she loves to walk for less explored places. In addition to camping with the nomads, she was enchanted by the mosques, ceramics and tapestries, with all its wealth of detail. The colors and patterns are clearly local in the collection, but not literally but, more graphic.
The entire collection is made up of knitting, hyper well executed and full of colors and prints, earning movement through the effects of the plots. The combination of colors in graphic designs is the high point, as well as new textures won by a brand new machine (already used by brands such as Prada and Dior), which is in the knitting tapestry texture, enabling new finishes such as the maxi coat with drawings there in high relief (look, and Daiane) and the floating wires (look 26, Thairine).
And it is worth noting the purse-bag with ethnic scent the moment a grace which is already on our wish list for the winter.
TÊCA POR HELÔ ROCHA
Highlights: If there is one word that defines well the winter collection of Têca is decorativista. With many maxipaetês in sports jackets that will be accompanied by one grace of jeans or a tailor and “nothing” or embroidery so vivid butterflies on a black background that looks like it will go flying by inspiring medieval forest collection, the designer of the winter is to lush girls, ready to shine at a party of those dream of fancy, as the Italian film the Great Beauty (2013).
In devour silk and velvet, jacquard, chine crepes, golden, lips and marine, long slackers, dresses type robe, the short ones sets and combinations midi skirt and shirt are superenfeitadas antidote of joy and glamor to any day cold and gray. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Juliana celebrates 10 years of brand and makes a return to the origins, when it appeared bringing freshness stylish with its cool deluxe sport and young. What was new was the way she wore the sweatshirt and the treatment they gave him.
Juliana highlights iconic elements of its trajectory, resulting in a very sporty collection, mixing techniques like embroidery and laser cutting.
There pants, dresses, skirts, oversized jackets in various colors and prints with a proposal to shape to the taste of Jabour, light carelessness and comfort, but with fashion information.
The best moments are due to the striped hooded top applied flowers and gray mix. Worth looking for the look of styling 11 who made a successful blend modern three-piece chatting: a striped dress with gray sweatshirt mix and a sweatshirt jacket tied around his waist. Let the next 10 years!
Highlights: Lino Villaventura is our designer of theatrical performances closer to haute couture, the exotic beauty that causes estrangement and enchantment. This winter 2015, part of this facet of the fashion designer was seen again on the catwalk, mixing his DNA with couture closer everyday pieces. “Simple shapes, functional, with attention to practical and smart,” summed up his release text. Of course, glamorous practicality à la Lino Villaventura, with flared skirt yellow long, white shirt with also long black skirt, and so on.
In the most dramatic series Lino, the famous ribs stylist appeared on the transparency of crumpled tissue in beautiful dresses close to the body in one of the best and most exciting parts of the presentation. (CAROLINA VASONE)
What to pack for a young couple who travels the world, past glaciers, roads, forests, cities, with some happy holidays along the way?
Osklen reinterpreted five wardrobe icons (trench coat, flannel plaid shirt, military look, jeans and smoking) to reach more a collection of their DNA running in vein: design, comfort and novelty.
All parts are usable and desirable, starting with the beginning coats in a fabric that looks like wool, but it is actually a silk made with waste production and handloom (1 look). There are very successful ideas along the collection, such as trench deconstructed in layers (look 21, for example) and the pieces inspired by lingerie garments like petticoats. “We think we will not put lingerie on the catwalk Osklen, you can not!” Jokes the design director Juliana Suassuna. The solution was to reproduce the effect leather laser cut, as delicate as the lightest of petticoats. Only more beautiful. Another hit to the line of branded accessories: Tennis with the recessed part of the heel, which refers to how only we stick his foot without proper shoeing, when we are at home.
The show is complete with the usual screen in the mouth of the scene, this time showing roads they now also want to pass. The road trip Osklen is just beginning. (CAMILA Yahn)
Highlights: Just missing the little angels playing trumpets in a fresco painted on the awning of the parades Acquastudio room to set the mood full cut aristocratic. In the middle of the runway, the models stopped and gave a ride, a length type dance Palace of Versailles hall. Instead of Marie Antoinette, Esther Bauman thought of Aleijadinho and mining Baroque art to create a collection that is pure luxury decorativista. Chatons (a flat pebbles resin or other synthetic material) plated with gold embroidery and rebordados adorned the models made for these princesses of old, with Godes full skirts, those that do not skimp tissue and show who is the party of the noble. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: There was a time when the Amapô was applauded by his colleagues with squeals of fashion season. A time when all were younger and believed leading to grow together, one supporting the other’s work. Ten years later, not in the first version of Hot Spot (it was a mini fashion week of young designers), but in São Paulo Fashion Week, fellow designers that past, as Dudu Bertholini not only applauded as danced excited to watch the parade commemorating a decade of Amapô. Proof that the new generation of Brazilian fashion was right. And not only in the idea that unity is strength, but there is room for designers “root” those who, more than clothes, create fashion.
The parade of Amapô, like many others of his career, was for those who are interested it is in the creation of fashion. The look that his father will ask with a certain revolt tone if it is used in the same street, you know? But it is the kind of creative thinking that makes the fashion gear rotate and that turns into new proposals, then diluted, absorbed and made into clothes than his father, but his girlfriend is not necessarily fashionista but a good taste will use on the street. Herself Amapô do it very well with their jeans high waist and other parts that are true sales success among women who do not want to reinvent the wheel with the fashion look, just look better with interesting and intelligent information (preferred) on clothing.
On the runway the last day of Fashion Week was not the time to show clothes everyday, but to celebrate the trials, humor and creative daring over a decade mark. The weather was party, Michael Jackson track and energy such that the audience did not hold back in just beat the little foot to the rhythm of hits: some shuffled his shoulders, humming, almost rehearsed one little dance. The looks were reinterpretations of memorable moments of the brand, such as the collection that sought the geometry of the parachute to create jackets and triangular and multifaceted dresses. The raw material of all this winter was the jeans, woven’s flagship brand, used in patchworks of white, blue and gray, in sets of striped skirt and blazer. The sets, indeed, appear in many versions of worn the pants and blazer spacious full of jewels applications reminding Moroccan mosaics. The same body of jewels embroidered denim shirt, this class versions ready to be sold in the store. To thicken the popular appeal of those who like to absorb information from many universes (Carolina Gold and Pitty Taliani are so), Fresno band members made cameo as models. The prints, great animal designs, both animals face (Tigers) in sweatshirts (jeans!) As prints of leopard, especially the priceless bootie with jaguar muzzle. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: Michelli Alves, Paulo Zulu and Mariana Weickert, veterans models, replaced the global players of past issues between the catwalk highlights of TNG and ended the winter edition in 2015 with a re-reading of the history of jeans under the gaze of the brand.
In the release, the fashion aulinha taught that the material, although reported among the workers of American mines even born in France in the late 18th century, in a town called Nimes, from which derived the name denim (from fabric “of” Nimes) . Originally brown, jeans lends its original color to the palette of TNG, wearing material tones that refer to mine land dirt (but blue indigo and light blue also worn), create patchworks with the material to reference the use nothing glamorous and initial mixing the individual components, such as bib, with references to classic models of party or tailoring, like the skirt flared new look type, male jacket with vest and suit male and female in a very light jeans . (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: Cracks deep, skirt, pencil, high waist marked, vinyl, leather, neck shoulder to shoulder dresses glued to the body, showing the curves that the angles of Helmut Newton as well highlighted. To honor the concept of femininity played by German photographer, Wagner Kallieno, rookie in São Paulo Fashion Week, used some of the basic elements of the photographer’s images to create the winter of 2015 its brand. The Natal stylist moved between classical elegance and the fetish to create his collection, which also featured the artwork of wide stripes, used in various orientations, either horizontally in short dress with plunging neckline and long sleeve and seven-eighths coat as in diagonal detail in the skirt-pencil knee, used with jacket. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: The clothing Llas mining duo is this that makes you want to take a closer look. Detail-oriented, project winning Hot Spot Movement trendy category, send fabricate each little flower embroidering in their clothes in Minas Gerais. To debut at São Paulo Fashion Week, they add to the flowers unusual and fun reasons, a mixture of natural and delicate materials such as linen gauze with sports modeling – the bomber jacket has become guaranteed model in the collections of the brand, which launches a line capsule to the Riachuelo on June 18. “Everything has an irony,” explained to Costanza Pascolato backstage after the show. A hilarious irony, almost mocking, but applied gently, clothes embroidered with the All Stars bananinhas, anchors, snakes and chickens. To set the mood of new bets, the track was sung live by Alice Caymmi, granddaughter of Dorival Caymmi. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Highlights: “It is the place that generated the Björk, right, guys?”. The comment Thiago Marcon, responsible for style 2nd Floor, says a lot about the repertoire of the country that inspired the winter brand: Iceland. Inhospitable place, with glaciers and volcanoes, exotic singers and winter sports like biking in the snow – this information came from a member of style team and was quickly incorporated into the collection – Iceland served as the backdrop for James and his team create parts for 20-something girls, who, as he himself defined the interview before the show, “come out at night shirt”.
It makes sense then that the presentation began with Laura Neiva actress and singer Fiuk wearing the shirts of the Knights of the Zodiac, to be successful brand’s sales and do not necessarily have anything to do with the winter 2015 inspiration brand . The allusion to cartoon characters and comic books, however, refers to Thiago fashion history, which since the days when independent paraded in Breeders home already was inspired by dolls of all kinds, including the Monica .
On the catwalk of Björk of land, the world revolves around much more than sympathetic shirts of Zodiacs. Again, as in the parent brand, it is worth paying attention to jeans, though the mountains jacquard is interesting, yes, and perhaps considered the most noble part of the collection, with its glittering embroidery. Dubbed with neoprene (it is actually a fit jersey, a material that explains Thiago, neoprene seems a lighter and thinner version), the jeans come a camouflaged pattern Glacier and appear in the best pieces in the collection, pants earning a boss all especially the most structured straight dresses, perky, and the short-sleeved little jacket, collar, wrist and sports bar and embroidery imitating chic necklace. A grace. (CAROLINA VASONE)
Look at the premiere of Luiz Claudio with your brand Apartment 03 in SPFW: to begin with, he made a show whose theme is friendship. In fact, a story of friendship for which delighted in the film “Dersu Uzala” (1975), Kurosawa. For his first show at Fashion Week, it also tells the story of its own brand, entering in the collection of the first pieces that managed to sell his.
Luiz was all smiles backstage. With that quiet way of the miners, or felt like it was a few hours of parading in Fashion Week for the first time. “I’ve been through so much perrengue and today is so quiet that has no reason to be nervous.” For perrengue he recalls a presentation that was almost canceled last minute, with models dressed, because the shoes were not enough. To guard, he brought up his seamstresses of Minas Gerais.
Many people say that the designer has a clean style, but to look their parts, we see that has a baroque scent there, “like every good miner,” he says. There are interesting shapes and volumes and large, monochromatic looks, but a careful craftsmanship and a very close relationship with the raw material. “I learned to sew with my mother, who always told me, ‘you’re bad, cutting and do it again.'”
For the collection that we have seen in this edition is a masterpiece that looks stylist sweetness, their family and cultural heritage, learning from a young age, their nothing obvious references and the fact now your brand has received an investment of stylist Patricia Bonaldi with holding Nohda. There are beautiful long dresses, elongated silhouette, the heavier the beginning to the end of the patterned light (one of the most beautiful prints of the season) and along the way a well-edited series of finishes, textures, shapes and embroidery. Difficult is not in any of them.
Luiz Claudio has his hand away and a partnership that respects its history of creation.
The change was present early on, with a chaotic soundtrack that unfolded after the cool sound of SBTRKT, with “New Dorp, New York.”
The input Vitorino fields in the brand style changes the course for a welcome revitalization. The result is an image / more contemporary woman, in tune with current global style. The very theme, the Silk Road, is crafted of non-literal way and goes almost unnoticed, but for the silk itself the raw material more expensive to Animale. The zippers that create cracks in dresses lend a modern sensuality young; coats with their moorings (the indigo tone is pure desire) and hosiery result in good times, especially with regard to the silhouette volumes and varying lengths.
And it is worth mentioning the accessories, silver plate necklaces and crystals to boots and mules (again, blue render the best parts) that were well thought out and executed and already have guaranteed the list of wishes for the coming winter.
Backstage just before the parade started, Vitorino seemed somewhat nervous (buzz that naturally takes all designers), but everything has a remedy in fashion – in this case, nothing that a good presentation can not solve. A good debut, a new time, a promising future. (CAMILA Yahn)
UMA RAQUEL DAVIDOWICZ
A is synonymous with high urban woman of her last power. Nothing better then that parade under the gray asphalt tone packing abotinadas the past to the sound of a rock band. If played live, even better. In the building there is the minimalist tailoring, every station in the more contemporary designer, Rachel Davidowicz, its creative director, decided to add a good deal of decorativism through a partnership with the artist and friend of a geova Rodriguez decade, artist and designer who lives in New York for 30 years. Rachel had then modeling while geova with customization. “For me this is a frame. What has changed is only the material, “said the artist to FFW backstage before the presentation, referring to each of the clothes.
So geova was creating faces and figures that are between the figurative and abstract design, an exercise that lasted a week, with materials such as tulle, studs, leather sequins and normal, among others. “The result was achieved by chance, I was not thinking about each drawing. Intentional unique is the house, which refers to my childhood, “he says.
The shapes, all asymmetry seems to revolve around a geometric shape: the triangle. Skirts and dresses with pointed bars are among the highlights of the collection, which in addition to the traditional white and black hits the beautiful orange merthiolate and dark green, especially beautiful in silk pieces. The finishes on end “raw,” as the designer also provide cool air to the models. Featured for dress with shirt sleeves which can be used as a belt, tied at the waist, or dressed, giving another way to play, which looks like a tunic!